Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Holy Toledo..... (Batman)
This certainly is a holy town and is also World Heritage-listed. Toledo sits 530 metres above sea level on a steep rocky outcrop, and for a long time Jews, Muslims and Christians lived in harmony here. Over the centuries Toledo has been a Celti-Iberian city, a Roman outpost, a Moorish-Muslim city, the capital of unified Spain and a recognised cultural and intellectual centre within Europe. Toledo is the town that inspired the famous artist El Grco and is the point of departure for the adventures of Cervantes' Don Quixote. Our two days have been filled to overflowing with historical and cultural sites. The highlight was the magnificent Cathedral, which words can hardly describe. Construction started in 1226 and was not completed until 1493. It is one of the most outstanding examples of Gothic architecture in Spain, indeed in all of Europe. It measures 120 metres by 60 metres and contains five naves supported by 88 pillars, each with a circumference of about 14 metres, and 72 vaults, as well as more than a dozen family chapels. The sacristy houses paintings by El Greco, Goya and Carravegio (to name just three of the noted artists on display) as well as the original robes of bishops and archbishops dating back to the 15th century. The Custodia de Arfe, a magnificient gold and silver monument about three metres tall and housed in the Treasure Room, is made up of 18kg of pure gold and 183kg of silver, and contains 260 small, detailed statuettes of gold and silver. The Treasure Room also houses a 1258 bible with gold-leafed artwork. The 'Choir' section of the Cathedral is hailed as the most beautiful of all the European cathedrals (see photo). Unbelievable artwork and monuments throughout and the whole scale of the building is awe-inspiring. We also visited the Iglesie de Santo Tome, a modest church in comparison but containing El Greco's masterpiece 'The Burial of the Count of Orgaz'. Next was San Juan de los Reyes, a Franciscan monastery where the chains of Christian prisoners who were liberated in Granada in 1492 can be seen dangling from the walls. We also visited a beautiful Jesuit church and climbed up into the towers for impressive views over Toledo and the surrounding countryside. Then off to the Mezquite del Christo de la Luz - the 1,000-year-old mosque - and the Sinagoga Santa Maria la Blanca - the Jewish synagogue - to experience the contrast in expressions of faith; not a statue or painting in sight. Toledo is also famous for its steel and examples of its products, particularly swords, knives and armour, can be seen everywhere. It is also famous for marzipan - quite a contrast. This week Toledo has celebrated the Festival of Corpus Christi, as it has done since the 13th century, and the streets are adorned with flowers and tapestries that made this fascinating town all the more beautiful. It has been a wonderful place to visit but we are completely wrecked from walking the steep, cobbled streets in 38 degree heat. Right now we'd welcome a plain in Spain, or even some rain in Spain. Today - we leave Toledo to catch the train in Spain, back to Madrid then on to Granada.
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